Hi everyone!
I don't really know where to begin, so I apologize for the length up front. We have only been in Cambodia for about 24 hours, but it already feels like a few days. After getting to the Liger site by midnight last night, we headed to bed around 1:30AM. Unpacking has yet to commence -- perhaps seeming a bit insurmountable at this point. The mattress is rock hard, but we passed right out, surrounded on four sides with netting, our mounted, remote-controlled wall fan spinning and the bedroom AC fan blowing. Robert told us to be ready by 11:15 this morning for Dom (Assistant Director, mainly in charge of operations, Australian with an adopted Cambodian son, speaks Khmer) to pick us up for brunch. A mumbled "set an alarm" between me and Jeff was fruitless, however, and we woke up around 11:30. Ah! Moment of panic. Luckily, we ran into JoJo and Max, the other American couple on staff, walking back from a dip in the pool, so we knew we weren't late.
The pool they were dipping in - a five minute walk across campus
Our first tuk-tuk ride was eye-opening, but also reassuring. While motorbikes and motorcycles dominate the roads, alongside cars, bikes and pedestrians, everyone appears to obey an unwritten speed limit of 30-35 mph. Honking is used as a system of alert to slower vehicles and when approaching turns or blind spots. There are limited traffic lights and signs, and merging can be tricky (as can U-turns and one way streets...) but we did not witness any road rage or particularly unsafe driving. Tuk-tuks (little carriages with two benches pulled by motorcycles) comfortably seat four or five Americans, but can also handle ten Cambodians with two bunches of bananas, three overflowing water containers and a newborn baby. Max and JoJo joined us for the ride, and it was great getting to know them. They both went to college in MN, but JoJo was born and raised in the Congo. Most recently, they lived in NYC. Max reminds me a lot of Andrew Sanders (friend from abroad/college/now) and they complement each other really well.
Once at the Java Cafe, we met up with Dom's cheerful, blonde Australian wife Ben (Benita), Robert, his lovely British wife Kate, Nica (another intern, born in the Philippines, just graduated from UVA), and another teacher, Jo (Robert claims she is the best art teacher he has ever known). Over tuna melts and eggs benedict, we enjoyed our DELICIOUS French press coffee and chatted, finally able to ask many of our questions. Robert continues to astound us with his demeanor, knowledge, vision and genuine welcome.
After brunch, Nica, Max, JoJo, Jeff and I took another tuk-tuk (same driver, he was with us from 11AM to 10PM for $20) to an indoor mall of sorts, complete with grocery store called 'Lucky', as well as a more traditional market. We were on the hunt for some household goods, including silverware, cups, a bathmat, etc. Our bathmat was four dollars, and we got five spoons and five forks for seven. At the grocery store, a big bottle of Maker's Mark ran $20, and there were a ton of American items, including Oreos, Doritos, Golden Grahams, etc. (Barb, I am sure you are glad to hear about the snack availability!)
After a few hours wandering, we headed back to Liger for a brief period to unpack some more, shower and change. The day was certainly hot, but we did not experience any rain (although it is technically the rainy season), and there was a nice breeze. While the tuk-tuk drivers were a bit pushy when we exited the mall, all they needed was a 'no, thank you" before moving on. The markets all took U.S. currency, and the grocery store took credit cards. We have yet to see a great deal of begging or street children.
This evening involved meeting back up with Robert and for the first time, Peter, another teacher, who most recently was teaching in the villages of Thailand, but formerly built yachts in Camden, Maine. We went to a bar for a drink and some apps (mojitos in Cambodia leave much to be desired), and then an authentic Cambodian feast (around $60 for seven people), which included mango salad, papaya salad, a delicious curry, rice, fresh spring rolls, and two chicken dishes, as well as two pitchers of Cambodian beer, which tastes like Bud Light.
Everyone has been so friendly and down to earth so far, and we are now back at the apartment, where we just saw a baby gecko on our wall. He eats the bugs, so he can stay. Kate, we need you to get down here so you can begin identifying all our crawly friends!
Anyway, you all asked for an update, and I am compulsively detailed when it comes to recounting my day, so there you have it. With Olympic ping-pong on the TV, I sign off.
P.S. If you want to text us and have an iPhone, download WhatsApp. If you have either me or Jeff in your contacts, our name should pop up and its free international texting.
