Silk Island

Since the last time I updated, so much has happened that I can't possibly recount it all now. I flew back to the U.S. for my sister's wedding, saw my family and recharged my batteries with Chipotle, TJ Maxx and a comfortable bed in a hotel room with my Mom. Post celebration, Kate and her new husband Tyler joined me for the 12-hour followed by 5-hour flights back to Cambodia. We spent the first two days in and around Liger and Phnom Penh, and then took an 8-hour (are you seeing a theme here?) bus ride to Siem Reap. Overall it was a really special experience. Kate and I have never had a chance to travel together, outside of family vacations. It was also a wonderful opportunity to get to know Tyler better, which served only to reinforce my initial feelings about him - he is Kate's patient, intelligent, relaxed other half.

On our second "Phnom Penh" day, Jeff suggested that we take a ferry out to Silk Island. This is something that he had wanted to do for a while, and I had resisted because I am annoying when it comes to new things. (Interesting, right, for a girl who picked up and moved to Cambodia?) I must take this time to admit to Jeff that he was right, and that Silk Island was hands down the best day that I have spent here thus far.

Because we were catching a 7am bus from the Riverfront, and because Silk Island is close to the Riverfront, we got a Riverfront hotel, sensible folks that we are. After we checked in around one pm, we got picked up by our friend and tuk-tuk driver John. When Jeff and I first met John we were wandering past the Royal Palace for the first time and he called us over in English. We told him we did not need a ride, but he was so charming and friendly that we took his number for when we were on his side of the city. He had been clamoring to take us around to the Killing Fields and other touristy areas, but we wanted to wait until we had visitors, so we asked if he would show us around the island. He was more than happy to.

First we had to tuk to the ferry, which was about a thirty minute ride down a long, dusty highway, past huge elephants carved out of glistening wood and lots of new construction projects. When we got to the ferry, we realized that the ride couldn't be more than five minutes, as we could see Silk Island from the banks. We also realized once we got on that we were getting ripped off on our fare. Unfortunately, because we are Westerners, we sometimes are forced to pay a higher rate than locals. While the entire thing cost less than three bucks, it was more about the principle. Let's just say that a van full of people, animals, vegetables and a time travel machine probably got across for less than we did. On the ferry, which was no more than something that floats, there were lots of people going back and forth with vegetables and fruit to sell in PP. Huge, overpacked bags of bananas, mangos and bok choy hung from moto handlebars. 

As soon as we got off the ferry, a pretty Cambodian woman with big cheeks (Claire), freckles and a diamond inlaid on her front tooth (common here...not a real diamond obviously), started speaking to us in English and asking us to follow her to her home to buy silk. She got on her moto and followed our tuk-tuk, calling out to us in a friendly way the whole time. John must have had a prearrangement with her, because sure enough we ended up at her house, which was one of the first ones on the main road. 

As we approached her house, we saw that it was more like a little complex, which was made out of one larger house (typical Cambodian dwelling made of wood and cement on stilts about a story above the ground), two smaller wooden structures, sizable land for the chickens, puppies and children that we met, and her silk weaving loom. At once I noticed three little boys and two little girls (one of whom was dead asleep in a hammock despite the ruckus) between the ages of three and seven. They had all been at school in the morning and were now home for the remainder of the day. There were four or five different women who made up a silk selling cohort, all friends coming together to profit share. The woman who had flagged us down, Sokhim, was the "boss." Besides the kids and the women, there were at least four brand new puppies, the mother dog, lots of chickens, a cat, an adorable 6-month old baby boy, and the baby daddy. It was quite a lively scene.

Sometimes, when I have been in more "touristy" situations, where purchasing something is the end goal, I have felt taken advantage of, pestered, conned or just uneasy. None of these emotions played out at any point during this experience. I gravitated first to the baby (big shocker, I know), and before I knew it I was holding him and talking to the mother about his health, skin color, age, etc. She was so open and warm and genuine that it didn't make me feel anything but welcome. I also have to point out that all of these women spoke more English than the typical Cambodian selling something at a market. Ultimately, it was much easier to relate to them, laugh with them and get to know them. 

And over the course of the hour and a half that we spent there, get to know them we did. Sokhim told me that her husband died, and that she has two kids: a 12-year-old boy and a 16-year-old girl. She is 39 herself. Her daughter goes to school in PP and takes the ferry back and forth each day. When the ladies found out that Kate and Ty were on their honeymoon, they brazenly (by Cambodian female standards) joked about buying a silk blanket for "the honeymoon bed." The atmosphere was really relaxed as John lazed in a hammock, I held the baby, we all took turns weaving some silk and talking. The silk itself was really amazing. It was truly authentic, and Sokhim told us that the piece that was on the loom currently would take at least another two months to complete. When we then looked at the finished products, including simple items like scarves and more complex two-sided blankets with tassels and embroidery, it was shocking the amount of time and patience that went into each piece. Suffice to say, we each walked away with a plastic bag bulging with silk treasures and were wholly satisfied that we had gotten a good deal. The experience alone was worth it.

Sokhim on the loom

After we left, John took us on a tour of the island. I swear, I have never seen so many kids in one place. The island was teeming with them. The incredibly bumpy roads were largely empty except for a bicycle or moto here or there, but every single driveway boasted a pack of kids playing, singing "HELLO!", each cuter than the last. I can only speak for myself, but I couldn't stop smiling. There were lots of interesting things that we stopped to see, including large hay stacks that were actually used to house cows, actual cow-driven plows, little huts at the water's edge that could be rented for a picnic, a raised, wooden shack full of big, pink pigs and a group of men and boys playing a bowling game that was reminiscent of bocce. 

That night, exhausted but happy, we grabbed a pseudo-tapas dinner and went straight to bed.

In the works...Siem Reap and Angkor Wat.

Guest Blog - Caitlin Bell

Below is a guest blog, written by my older sister, Caitlin, who spent the last five days with us in Cambodia. She and her new husband Tyler take off for Laos tomorrow. Below is her experiences/impressions from her first two days...enjoy!

Day one of our honeymoon was "Phnom-enal" :)

 

We began with a quick trip to Cool Mart down the road, which meant that Jeff and I took a 10-minute moto ride during which we dodged bicycles, tuk-tuks, people, and cow dung. We ran into a Liger security guard on the way back, Darath ("da-ra"), who convinced us to stop and grab coffee. We picked up two to go, which were about 2:1 sugar:coffee and were served in small plastic bags with straws. After pancakes and a quick tour of the Liger Facility where Jeff and Caroline work and live, we met up with Mr. Da, the tuk-tuk driver whom Caro and Jeff love, and went to the Russian Market, a partially open-air market. You can get everything from baby clothes to marble buddhas to produce to live fish at the market, which is laid out in a labyrinth of stalls piled high with everything you can imagine. 

 

 

After unsuccessfully trying to locate their favorite iced coffee vendor (the self-proclaimed "best iced coffee in Phnom Penh!), we headed to lunch at a nearby Japanese place. The food was excellent - chicken and pork with rice, bright-green pork dumplings, passion fruit soda.

After lunch we all got massages at a cute spa in the ex-pat part of the city. An hour-long back and shoulder massage plus the opportunity for a nice shower at the end cost us each $12.

Then Mr. Da drove us to the Royal Palace, where the entire city was converging to pay their respects to the former king, who passed away last week and whose body has been laid at the palace. Thousands of people in white shirts and black pants with black mourning ribbons milled around the main palace, praying over incense and sitting on the grass. 

 

 

On the other side of the square, we attracted the attention of a monk, who spoke English pretty well. After he heard that Caro and Jeff were living in the city, he brought over his whole family to be introduced. We aren't sure how exactly everyone was related, but they all may have been related symbolically instead of actually. The monk, Piset, talked with Caro and Jeff for about 20 minutes, and by the end, one older woman had requested that Jeff let her daughter have his nose (she liked his long nose, which she first called a mouth), and another had invited herself and 20 of her closest friends to Jeff and Caro's wedding, whenever that may be.

 

 

We walked to a nearby rooftop bar, which had a great view of the river and the palace, and watched the sunset. Then we walked back to Mr. Da, who took us to dinner at Khmer Surin, a beautiful restaurant that serves Cambodian food. Our dinner for four of fried rice, steamed coconut fish, beef with pepper sauce, pad thai, cucumber salad, and a pitcher of beer cost us $30. We tukked home to Liger (retaining Mr. Da all day cost $20 and a can of beer) and crashed immediately into bed.

My first impressions of Cambodia is pretty much what I've heard from other people who have visited. The people are incredibly, disarmingly, unapologetically friendly, and genuinely so. Just walking back to Liger after visiting the local Buddhist pagoda prompted a neighbor to offer us fresh coconuts, which her husband chopped open - and her mother presented us with straws without missing a beat. No one is pushy, except a few vendors and tuk-tuk drivers. Most people speak enough English to get by, and everyone else is happy enough to pantomime whatever it is you need. The food is excellent. In establishments that are nice enough to have a tile or wood floor, the interior is spotless. The bathrooms are cleaner than many I've seen in the U.S. I feel extremely safe everywhere we've been, even as a foreigner. No one gawks aggressively, just curiously. The (absolutely beautiful) kids yell "hello!" and giggle when you respond. 

That being said, this is a poor country. The roads, even in the city, are horrible, although passable. Huge mansions sit right next to cement huts with tin roofs, and both types abut streets lined with trash and piles of broken concrete. Stray dogs and cats are everywhere. No one has refrigeration, most don't have electricity, the kids don't wear shoes, and most people sleep on the same picnic table they conduct business on during the day out of the front of their house. In the poorest part of the city, a strip of houses on stilts leans out over the muddy Tonle Sap river; the homes are no more than bamboo-plank floors held up by posts and covered with sheets of tin and tarps weighted down with tires.

My main thought though, after Day One, is that this country has incredible potential. The level of universal friendliness will lend itself to a world-class tourism trade here, and with money will hopefully come better infrastructure, healthcare, and government. The kids and people I've met have been very smart, self-sufficient, and entreprenurial. Caroline told me that the kids whose families can't afford to send them to government school (which is free besides the uniform and book fees) will often just stand outside the door and listen to the lessons. These are people who are destined to succeed, and I think they just need the money and education to do so.

Later on today we are heading to Silk Island to check out the famous silk trade here, and then spending the night in the city before taking an early, 6-hour bus ride to Siem Reap tomorrow.

 

Sushi Status

Friday night, after an incredibly long week of work, Jeff and I pondered dinner. We could stay in, which was the easier and more convenient choice, or we could make the trek into town. Once we realized that we were wasting time lamenting the lack of take-out options in Cambodia, and acknowledged that there was not much to eat in the house, we headed into town. By making the extra effort, we ended up eating the best meal we have had here so far.

I love sushi. Jeff loves sushi. I still have Fins on my speed dial, and we probably ate sushi at least once a week back home. We were craving sushi (pretty much a constant for me) and had not yet tried Phnom Penh's Japanese offerings, so we drove in to Kanji, a gorgeous restaurant with sushi included on their extensive menu. We were not sure what the experience would be like, but if the food was even half as well done as the ambiance and decor, we figured we would end up happy. We each ordered a drink and some edamame, which thankfully tasted just like all the other edamame we had ever eaten. Next came an avocado seafood salad that was absolutely stunning in presentation and even better in flavor. It was shaped into a sort of raised dome, and included fresh tuna, salmon and squid, as well as a tangy dressing, lettuce, avocado and other veggies. After a few bites, Jeff had already declared that this was the best meal that we had had so far in Phnom Penh. I could not argue.

Finally we ordered two rolls, including the "volcano roll," complete with "cheesy baked scallops" on top (below); at this point, we knew that we had found our new favorite place. They even brought out a delicious complimentary ginger-raspberry ice cream at the end. It was the perfect meal and exactly what we needed. I promise not to make a habit of detailing our food, as I know that its not all that interesting to read about, but I think its important to make the point that while Phnom Penh is certainly a developing city, it has a spectrum of dining options that are sometimes surprising. If you are lucky, when you come to visit, we will take you to Kanji. I may even name my firstborn Kanji...

Saturday morning, Jeff dropped me off at Java Cafe on his way to soccer practice with the kids. Java is also an art gallery and has been around for ten years, so it has a solid reputation in the ex-pat community and caters to a certain Cambodian clientele. When I arrived, the outside balcony was already full up, so I was forced to sit inside for the first time. I took my seat at a table for two in the corner of the high-ceilinged main dining room and ordered an iced coffee.

Across the room from me in the opposite corner sat two Cambodian women in their early thirties, sharing a meal and chatting loudly. At first, I didn't pay them any attention, but soon the volume of their voices forced me to look in their direction. It became clear that they placed no value on the privacy of their conversation or other peoples' right to a nice, quiet meal in a public place. Furthermore, these two women were incredibly catty and self-centered, apparently thinking themselves Cambodia's version of Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie - socialites with nothing better to talk about than events and their friends. Over the next hour, as I ate/read and before I sought refuge in my headphones, I heard detailed discussion of the many upcoming galas they were invited to -- Operation Smile, Cambodian Kid's Foundation, Cambodian Fashion Week. I learned that one of them was having a birthday party on October 27th, at which a band would play who were flying in especially for the party -- one night only. I heard the birthday girl mention her current boyfriend, perhaps even her fiancee, indicating that when they walk into a room together, "everyone looks at us and wonders: what is she with him for -- money or status? I mean he's not attractive. I am the pretty one." I also witnessed a twenty-minute long phone call in which the birthday girl harangued her friend Peter about what gift to buy a newly engaged couple whose engagement party she had been invited to but did not know very well. I mean, "what do you get for the man who has everything?!"These are truly the questions that keep her up at night.

These two were so obnoxious that I began bonding with other patrons, communally rolling our eyes in their direction and laughing at their inanity. I could continue, but you get the point. I wanted to include this experience because it speaks to the rarely seen (at least in my life), but always present upper class of Cambodia. There are people who live in this city who make millions of dollars, who live in huge mansions with security guards and who send their children away to school. These people drive luxury vehicles (or rather, their drivers do) and they wear designer clothes. I am not using this incident to declare any blanket judgement about said upper class, but just to note that they exist. It is not something that I am exposed to very often, and it was striking.

I will leave you with a gem from today. Below is a photo of a page from a student's number book. They were asked to create a word problem for the number seven as part of a larger assignment. I think it gives a little peek into the cultural differences that we are immersed in here...