I want to start out with that quote, which Robert said during a meeting last week, as it applies to so many aspects of our experiences here in Cambodia. But, before I get all layered and nuanced, it directly applies to the fact that WE RENTED A MOTO! Yes, this past Saturday, Jeff and I tukked into town with Mr. Da, made a depressing stop at the bank (each international transfer runs $35) and then stopped off at Lucky Lucky, the local moto dealer. In all of six minutes, we had paid $40 cash, filled out the most basic of forms and chosen helmets. With a few quick tips from the owner's son ("you probably get pulled over, two dollar; one liter petrol in the tank, get more right away; good luck!"), Jeff gunned the engine and was off. For his first ride, I was much more comfortable on the pleather seats of Mr. Da's tuk-tuk, and it was good for Jeff to have someone to pace with.
Wait, did I mention our bike is bright pink?
Sunday involved living out the Liger core values, moto-style:
1. Determination: Before we even arrived at our first destination on Sunday morning, we were stopped by three police officers for being white while going down an unmarked one-way street (everyone here drives both ways on all streets, all the time). We tried to interact with said officers in the way we have been told to -- turn off the bike, give them three bucks and be on your way. However, these men chose to give us a hard time, asking us where we are from, taking turns speaking so we never knew who to address, refusing to simply take the money and then pocketing Jeff's temporary license. But, determined to be patient and polite, Jeff eventually sprang us by paying 10,000 riels ($2.50) and got his license back. I, on the other hand, secretly flipped them off each subsequent time we passed their location (which was more than once because we were getting the lay of the land...).
2. Ingenuity: We were stopped dead in traffic on the road back to Liger due to a gigantic truck towing a massive cement beam. The beam was not lying flat on a bed, but rather was suspended about five feet above the ground at an angle. There were probably thirty other motos and a handful of cars within spitting distance, all of whom were trying to squeeze themselves around the truck's girth, mildly unconcerned with being decimated in the process. No one had successfully managed. We scooted up the right lane, inches from the beam on our left and inches from the storefronts on our right.
Jeff: "We could just go under.." (indicating the cement beam)
Me: "We are NOT going under that!"
Old Cambodian Man in front: "mumblemumblesmilepoint"
Jeff: "Doing it!"
Caroline: "Okaaaayahhhhhhh!"
Jeff: "How you like me now?! Like a BOSS!" (speeding onto the open road, past astonished Cambodian faces)
3. Appreciation: The ability to get on the bike and go off-campus without waiting for a tuk-tuk or coordinating with colleagues is the most liberating and empowering feeling we have had since coming here. The knowledge that we tackled something together that neither of us had done before and were ultimately successful is even better. From our helmet hair to our swerving to avoid idiot chickens, we have enjoyed it all so far.
4. Optimism: That being said (Mom(s) and Dad(s)), we are being very careful and planfully optimistic. The moto does not actually go that fast, and we wear helmets at all times. We were able to successfully drive home a blender (in its box), the two of us and a backpack full of groceries without incident, so we are moving toward being authentic Khmer drivers. When I get scared, I just look to my right and make note of the toddler standing up on the seat behind its father, who is driving and talking on his phone, cigarette clenched between his lips (father, not toddler); then, I look to my left and see the infant actually asleep in its mother's arms, sandwiched between its older brother and sister. I tell myself: "Caro, if a baby can do it, you can do it."
That's all for now, as Jeff has just pulled some piping hot arancini out of the oven (three dipping sauces none the less).
If you want to see some fabulous photos of last week's Technology Challenges (fifty kids - a stack of newspaper - make a fashion show), check out my friend/fellow teacher Peter's blog: Bright Uprising
No comments:
Post a Comment